Chrysanthemum Cultivation in Pot

Chrysanthemum is one of the oldest cultivated flower crops which plays a significant role in the culture and life of people. Despite the many species of this genus, only one group, Chrysanthemum morifolium is grown in quantity as a cut flower. The genus is a member of the family compositae. Chrysanthemum is also commonly known as "Glory of the East". It is one of the most widely cultivated garden flowers and ranks probably next to the rose in popularity. There is hardly any other garden flower which has such diverse and beautiful range of colour, shapes, and height as that of Chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum in pots are very useful in decorating purpose. The flowers stay well in sun and shade and the buds continue to open for a long period. All types of Chrysanthemum grow and flower well in pots. In India it has been recognised as one among the five important commercially potent flower crops.

II. Pot Plant Production

Chrysanthemum has been considered as number one among the major pot crops and year-round pot-mums are now grown allover the world. The pot-mum production has become the most profitable form of commercial chrysanthemum growing. Economy of space, time, material, etc. has made this style of growing very promising and an excellent range of colour, form, long lasting quality of blooms and easy in handling make them most popular.

An ideal pot-mum is one in which the diameter of flowering head is equal to the height of the plant, as measured from the rim of the pot and plant height should be three times the height of the half-pot used.

Choice of suitable cultivar, ideal pot compost, high quality cuttings, proper potting technique, optimum environment, judicious feeding, watering and management are important for the production of quality pot-mums.

A. Growth medium
The basic requirement of a compost are to anchor the plants firmly and provide ideal conditions for root growth. Loam, peat, sand, sawdust and plastic foam have been used for this purpose. A good growing medium should be loose and well drained. Peat and sand mixture are most commonly used and slow release or coated fertilizers have been found to be beneficial Application of 10 g of 14-14-14 slowly soluble coated fertilizers gave excellent result in 15 cm pots. Plants grown in peat-like medium, consisting of vermiculite, sphagnum peat and sand (4.5:4.5:1 = V:V:V) amended with superphosphate, magnesium sulphate and dolomite at 2.9, 0.7 and 5.2 kg/m3, respectively, produced the thickest and longest stems.

Many growers now use artificial mixes which are uniform in physical and chemical properties, easy to handle and free from pathogens, insects and weed seed. Such mixes have also been found economical.

B. Potting ,
Proper grading of rooted cuttings according to length, thickness, leaf area, amount of root and fresh weight is essential before planting. Uniform cuttings should be planted for obtaining identical sets of pot plants and variation in planting material will show variation in growth and flowering and finally a set of uneven plants will be produced. Thicker cuttings were found to produce plants which flowered earlier and had larger and more number of flowers than those produced from thinner cuttings. Correct method of potting is also important.

1. Shifting
For growing chrysanthemum in pots, plants are shifted in pots of various sizes. The rooted cuttings are first planted in 8-10 cm pots. When the roots are almost pot bound and the growth of the plant is slowed after some time, the plant needs shifting. The condition of root growth can be verified by tossing out the plants from the pot. When much branched roots have made a network between the compost and the inner wall of the pot and the plant comes out of pot easily with the compost held by the closed network of root it should be repotted in bigger pot. If kept for a long time with roots in pot bound condition the growth will be severely affected and plants will develop closed jointed internodes and leaves be- come smaller. in size. From a 8-10 cm pot, the plants are transferred in 15 cm and finally in a 20 cm pot. Large growing varieties often need 25 cm pot. The shifting is not optional but a necessity in chrysanthemum. Direct planting in a bigger pot will not produce quality bloom.

Rooted cuttings of chrysanthemum develop better root system when grown in small pots because soils in such pots do not remain wet for a long time and better aeration encourages root growth. Because of limited supply of nutrients and restricted root system, the vegetative growth is also not luxuriant with soft and tender shoot. In chrysanthemum rapid and luxuriant vegetative growth are not desired. The plants should however, make steady and continuous growth throughout with semi-woody, erect and strong stem and much branched root system so that it can absorb sufficient amount of nutrients after appearance of flower bud for developing it into a large t flower.

2. First potting
For first potting the soil should be of medium texture and not very rich. The compost should consist of three parts of loamy soil, one part of dry screened leaf mould and small amount of super-phosphate, if bone meal has not been mixed in the compost at least a month before potting. Sieve the mixture through fine meshes.

Put a corck on the bottom hole and some small pieces around it. A thin layer of coarse soil is placed over the crocks and 2/3rd of the pot is filled with compost and pressed with finger. The rooted cuttings is then planted, the pot is filled with compost which after pressing will leave a gap of 1.5 cm at the top. Cuttings should not be planted deep into the compost and not more than 1.5 cm basal portion should remain in the compost.

Water the potted plants with a fine rose carefully and see that the compost is thoroughly soaked. The pots are kept in shady place protected from rains. At this stage, both excess water or drying of compost are harmful to the plants. After the cuttings have established and started new growth, the pots are brought in full sun and watered. In dry and warm day it may be necessary to water twice daily. Rapid drying of the small pots can be reduced by inserting about 2/3rd of the pot in cinder or sandy soil. It also keeps the temperature of the compost lower and the plants grow better.

3. Second shifting
In small pot, a plant usually remains for 30 to 40 days before it is repotted in a 15 cm pot. The compost should be richer and made of 3 parts loam, one part each of well rotten cowdung or stable manure and leaf mould. A small amount of wood ash and a tea spoon 'sterameal' should be added in the compost for 15 cm pot. The compost should be mixed thoroughly but serving is not necessary. Fill a clean dry pot up to 1/3rd depth and consolidate the compost by pressing. Take out plant from 10 cm pot, remove the crocks from the ball of compost and place it in a bigger pot. Fill the sides and top with fresh compost, ram it and leave about 1.5 cm space empty for watering. After potting water the plant through a fine rose.

4. Final shifting
About 40 to 60 days after second potting the plants become ready for final shift in 20 cm pot. The time of repotting will depend on the growth of the plants. If the roots in 15 cm pot is pot-bound the plants should be repotted in a richer compost and adequate nutrients promote growth and flowering. The compost for final potting should consist of 4 parts loamy soil, 2 parts well decomposed cowdung manure, one part leaf mould, and a table spoon 'sterameal' and little wood ash for each 20 cm pot. Ram down the-compost up to 1/4th depth of the pot after placing adequate number of cracks at the bottom. Place the plants in position spreading the roots on the firm base of the soil in the pot. Then fill in the sides and the top with compost and ram it firmly and leave about 2.5 cm portion for watering.

5. Spacing
Immediately after potting, pots are placed pot to pot in the nurse area and after a week they are moved into the intermediate area and spaced at a little distance. Later pots are removed to their actual place of growing and spaced at a proper distance. Pots of 14 cm size, after placing pot to pot in the first week, are usually spaced at 20 x 23 cm for the next 2 weeks or 23 x 23 cm for the next 3 weeks and then shifted to the final spacing of 30.5 x 30.5 centimeters.